February 24, 2006

Sierra Leone

To travel from the airport to the city of Freetown, one must take the helicopter (can you see a pattern here ?). Lucky for me, the chopper ride coincided with the sunset. That, my friends, is a great beginning for my 3 week stay in SL !!! For more pictures of SL from the sky at sunset, Click here.

Pour aller de l'aeroport a la ville de Freetown, on doit prendre l'helicoptere (theme recurrent, apparemment, en ce debut d'annee 2006). J'ai eu beaucoup de chance: mon tour d'helico coincidait avec le coucher de soleil. Mes amis, ca promet!!! Pour plus de prises aeriennes du SL from the sky au coucher du soleil, Clickez ici.

This is the invitation I got from my co-worker with whom I am going to Sierra Leone:
"This will be my second trip to S/L. I was there just over a year ago. I have many plans to visit some friends there and you are welcome to join me. Last January I went with a group to help construct a recording studio in a school for the blind and paint some buildings at an elder care center. I'm under strict orders to revisit those places (plus I just plain want to) and take pictures of the completed recording studio. Also, there's a girl in a nearby village whose leg was amputated in the war. Some women from the US send money to support her and help with medical bills, and they would like photographs of her. Then there are the kids at the children's home and the residents at the elder care center and a guy who helped us paint that I want to see. If any of this sounds interesting to you, or if you are just plain bored and want something to do, you're welcome to come."

Seems like this is going to be an interesting visit!

Voici l'invitation de ma collegue avec qui je vais au Sierra Leone:
"ce sera mon deuxième voyage au Sierra Leone. J'y étais il y a tout juste une année. J'ai beaucoup de plans de visites à des amis là et tu est la bienvenue si tu veux te joindre a moi. Janvier passé je suis allée avec un groupe pour aider à construire un studio d'enregistrement dans une école pour aveugles et peindre quelques bâtiments dans un centre de soin pour personnes agees. Je suis sous ordres stricts de revisiter ces endroits (sans compter que je veux y aller) et de prendre des photos du studio d'enregistrement réalisé. En outre, il y a une fille dans un village voisin dont la jambe a été amputée pendant la guerre. Quelques dames americaines envoient de l'argent pour la soutenir et pour aider avec les factures médicales, et elles voudraient des photographies d'elle. Alors il y a les gamins des maisons d'enfants et les résidants du centre de soin pour anciens et le gars qui nous ont aidés à peindre que je veux revoir. Si ceci te semble intéressant, ou si tu t'ennuie et que tu veux quelque chose a faire, tu es la bienvenue."

Ca promet d'etre interessant !


The Beaver

My guest map is wonderful ! And you'd all be wonderful to post, all of you lurk mode readers!Thanks and may the winds of Fate blow your way !

February 23, 2006

Who to you think I am?

This is a pretty cool little trick! Tell me what you think of me!

Follow the link!

My own Johari Window.

Thanks Tina for the great Idea!


The Beaver

My guest map is wonderful ! And you'd all be wonderful to post, all of you lurk mode readers!
Thanks and may the winds of Fate blow your way !

February 22, 2006

Elmima... a European Castle in Africa... Chateau Europeen en Afrique

I left Pakistan on February 16th, and made my way to Accra, Ghana, where I was to meet up with my colleagues and both take the opportunity to rest and to prepare for my next mission to Sierra Leone.

One of my colleagues being local, we took advantage of his knowledge of the area and travelled to the Cape Coast, to Elmima Castle, to visit the most ancient slave trade castle is West Africa.

J'ai quitté le Pakistan le 16 février, et ai fait mon chemin vers Accra, Ghana, où je devais rencontrer mes collègues et prendre l'occasion de me reposer et mee préparer à ma prochaine mission au Sierra Leone.

Un de mes collègues étant locaux, nous avons tiré profit de sa connaissance du secteur et avons voyagé au Cape Coast, au château d'Elmima, pour visiter le plus antique château de commerce l'esclave d'Afrique occidentale.






Leaving Accra, I couldn't resist taking some street pictures. The African ability to make do with anything has always amazed me.

Quittant Accra, je ne pourrais pas résister prendre quelques photos de rue. La capacité africaine de se debrouillerm'a toujours stupéfié.

Apparently, the coast of Ghana is scattered with forts used for the slave trade. The one seen here in the back ground is called Fort Amsterdam.

Apparemment, la côte du Ghana est dispersée de forts autrefois utilisés pour la traite d'esclaves. Celui vu ici en arrière plan s'appelle Fort Amsterdam.


Elmima from afar... at last, I see the sea again ! Elmima is the oldest slave trade castle in West Africa: it's been around for over 500 years.

Elmima de loin... enfin, je revois la mer! Elmima est le château du commerce d'esclave le plus ancien en Afrique occidentale: il existe depuis plus de 500 années.


Let's enter the castle and take a trip in history. Weak hearts, stop your visit here.

Entrons dans le château et voyagons dans l'histoire. Coeurs sensibles, votre visite s'arrete ici.


Elmima's inside yard.... where the slaves arrived the first time.

La cour d' Elmima .... où les esclaves arrivaient la première fois.


Fishermen in Elmima, at the bottom of the castle.

Les pêcheurs d'Elmima, au pied du château.




This is the men's cell. 600 men were chained here, without light, air, or sanitary facilities.

C'est la cellule des hommes. 600 hommes ont été enchaînés ici, sans lumière, air, ou équipements sanitaires.


This is the entrance to the ladies' area. Not very different from that of the men, really, but with the added burden of the repeated rapes perpetrated by the guards and the governor, who apparently took pleasure in choosing his captives personally. Note the cannonbal embedded in the ground. Elmima was the object of quarrels between the Portugese (original founders), the Dutch (who ruled Elmima for centuries) and the English (who had custody of Elmima for 80 years, and after the abolishment of slavery in 1838). Ghana has retaken Elima for a bit over 50 years now, since decolonization.

C'est l'entrée au secteur des dames. Pas très différent des cellules des hommes, vraiment, mais avec le fardeau supplementaire des viols repetes par les gardes et par le gouverneur, qui prenait plaisir a choisir ses captives personnellement. Notez le boulet de canon incursté dans le sol. Elmima était l'objet des querelles entre les Portugais (fondateurs originaux), les Hollandais (qui ont régné sur Elmima pendant des siècles) et les Anglais (dont la suprematie a dure 80 ans, datant d'apres l'abolition de l'esclavage en 1838). Le Ghana a repris Elmima depuis la decolonisation depuis un peu plus de 50 ans.


These canons are still there, as a testament to the Greed of Man, ready to defend their priceless asset in the slave trade.

Ces canons sont toujours là, attestant à l'avarice de l'homme, prête à défendre leurs interets capitaux dans la traite d'esclaves.


The Death Cell: this is the room in which caught escapees were locked to die. 2 dozens of men could be locked here. The only way out was in a coffin. As long as there were survivors, no body would be removed.

La Chambre de la Mort: c'est la cellule dans laquelle les évadés etaient enfermés à clef pour mourir. 2 douzaines d'hommes pouvaient être fermées à clef ici. La seule sortie était dans un cercueil. Aussi longtemps qu'il y avait des survivants, aucun corps n'etait enlevé.


Door of no return: This is the door taken by the survivors, to be taken overseas as slave for plantations of Louisiana, the West Indies, and the Portugese colonies.

La porte de non-retour: C'est la porte prise par les survivants, pour être transportes outre-mer comme esclaves pour des plantations de la Louisiane, des Indes occidentales, et des colonies de Portugese.

This is where the road stops for us today. Soon, pictures from Sierra Leone, a small country in West Africa recovering from civil war, and where hope is very much alive.

C'est ici que la route s'arrête pour nous aujourd'hui. Bientôt, des images de Sierra Leone, un petit pays en Afrique occidentale récupérant de la guerre civile, et où l'espoir est tres vivant.

The Beaver
My guest map is wonderful ! And you'd all be wonderful to post, all of you lurk mode readers!Thanks and may the winds of Fate blow your way !

February 15, 2006

Pakistan advisory... surprisingly, I don't feel the heat!

I may not be american... but i sometimes pass for one. Passing this along to anyone who may still be in Pakistan or planning to travel to Pakistan soon....

Warden Notice No. 09/2006
February 15, 2006

We would like to make American citizens aware of the following situations that are taking place throughout Pakistan. Additional protests and demonstrations may occur throughout Pakistan without prior notice or warning. The Embassy will provide further information about
demonstrations as it is received. Again, we encourage all American citizens to remain aware of their surroundings at all times and to avoid all
demonstrations and protests.

Islamabad - Wednesday, February 15

1. At 1330 hours, people of BaraKahu City will organize a demonstration in Barakahu City (a 10 minute drive from the Embassy). It is expected that the demonstration will disrupt the traffic on the Murree Road.
2. At 1500 hours, a large group of various professionals (teachers, clerks, drivers, engineers, doctors etc.) will organize a demonstration at Kulsoom Plaza (intersection of Jinnah Avenue and 7th Avenue) to protest against the cartoons. Islamabad police have confirmed that during this demonstration, traffic on Jinnah Avenue may be diverted to other roads.
3. At 1500 hours, the students of the International University of Islamabad will hold another demonstration in the Melody Market area. Thus far, the police are not aware of whether or not the students will move out of this area. However, in view of the incidents in Lahore which took
place yesterday, additional police forces are being deployed as an added security precaution.

Islamabad - February 19 Rally (as per prior Warden Notice)

As previously mentioned, the route of this particular rally is scheduled to start from Aabpara chowk, proceed to Khayaban-i-Sohrawardy-Attaturk Avenue (west), continue to the intersection of Jinnah & Attaturk (west) Avenue and to the parade grounds. The rally is expected to start at 1300 from Aabpara and will terminate in front of Parliament House on the parade grounds.
It is expected to be a very large rally and could cause traffic hazards. Again, all Americans are encouraged to avoid the areas of this and all demonstrations and protests.

Rawalpindi - Sunday, February 19

1. At 1030 hours, students of Gordon College will organize a demonstration to protest against the cartoons.
2. At 1300 hours, the Pakistan Muslim League will organize a demonstration to protest against the cartoons.
3. At 1600 hours, journalists will organize a demonstration in front of the Rawalpindi press club to protest against the cartoons.

Karachi - Thursday, February 16

A protest against the cartoons is planned in Karachi on the 16th to begin at 1000 and last approximately 3 hours. The demonstration will begin on M.A. Jinnah Road at the Quaid-e-Azam Mausoleum and then proceed to the Tibet Center (in Saddar town). The demonstration should end approximately 3km from the US Consulate. Between 5,000-10,000 protestors are expected from several Sunni organizations.

Lahore - Wednesday, February 15

A protest is on-going in Lahore near Punjab University.

Lahore - Friday, February 17

Several religious groups are expected to protest the arrests that occurred during the February 14 strike.

Lahore - Friday, February 27

The Muttahida Majlis-e-Amal plan a large demonstration to protest the cartoons.

Lahore - Friday, March 3

Large-scale demonstrations are expected as part of a country-wide protest (mentioned in previous Warden Notice).

Peshawar - Thursday, February 16 and for the next several days.

At the time of this Warden Notice, Peshawar is experiencing demonstrations about the cartoons as well as the planned Wheel Jam strike. Some of these demonstrations have become violent and the police have had to use tear gas to disperse crowds. Due to this unrest, the Consulate in Peshawar recommends that as a precaution all Americans limit travel to Peshawar and all of NWFP for the next two days.

February 09, 2006

Bomb hits Shiites / Attentat-suicide

I don't know how many died (8 or 22??). The news didnt get to me yet... let's see what the local news paper says...

Je ne sais pas combien de morts (8 ou 22?). La nouvelle n'est pas encore arrivee chez moi... la suite dans le journal local de demain matin.

ISLAMABAD, Pakistan (AP) -- A bomb ripped through a Shiite Muslim procession Thursday in northwestern Pakistan, killing at least eight people, injuring dozens and sparking riots, officials said.

The explosion targeted hundreds of people after they emerged from a Shiite mosque in the town of Hangu, said a senior Interior Ministry official, who asked not to be named because he's not authorized to speak to the media. The Shiites were observing Ashura, the most revered religious holiday in their faith.

It wasn't clear if the bomb was detonated by a timer or a suicide attacker.
At least eight people were killed and dozens injured, said a senior intelligence official who also spoke anonymously because he is not authorized to speak to the media.

The Shiites responded by burning shops and cars while clashing with police in the town, located about 125 miles southwest of the capital, Islamabad, the Interior Ministry official said.
"The situation is very grave there. People are fighting. Police are trying to control them. Our priority is to get the injured to hospital, but angry and emotional processionists are attacking police vehicles and even ambulances," the official said.

Security was tight for the holiday because it has been marred by violence in recent years. Sunni Muslims -- the majority in Pakistan -- have been blamed for attacking the Shiites during the event, which involves religious processions across the country.

Ashoura marks the 7th century death of Imam Hussein, a grandson of the Prophet Muhammad. Hussein's death led to a rivalry between Shiites and Sunnis over who should succeed the prophet.
Source: CNN
Copyright 2006 The Associated Press. All rights reserved.This material may not be published, broadcast, rewritten, or redistributed.

Au moins 22 personnes ont été tuées et une quarantaine d'autres blessées jeudi lors d'un attentat-suicide contre une procession chiite au Pakistan.

L'explosion s'est produite alors qu'un millier de chiites s'apprêtaient à écouter des discours de leurs leaders.

Des émeutes ont suivi l'attentat. Des chiites en colère ont incendié des magasins et des voitures. L'armée a dû être dépêchée pour rétablir l'ordre.

Des responsables locaux ont attribué l'attentat à des extrémistes sunnites qui s'attaquent régulièrement à des cérémonies chiites.
Source: Canoe.ca

The Beaver




My guest map is wonderful ! And you'd all be wonderful to post, all of you lurk mode readers!
Thanks and may the winds of Fate blow your way !

Earthquake response reflections / Reflexions sur la reponse au tremblement de terre

Il est ici 3h30 du matin... j'ai travaille une partie de la nuit. Pour les prochains jours nous travaillons a l'hotel, precaution d'usage car c'est fete musulmane et le directeur du bureau craint (a juste titre, je crois - j'ai eu ce commentaire de locaux aussi) des manifestations et de la violence. Pour l'instant, Islamabad est calme. Je ne prends pas de risques, mais je doute qu'il arrive quelque chose. Enfin, ca me permet de travailler a mon rythme, je ne me plains pas...

It is here 3:30 AM.... I have worked a part of the night. For the next few days, we are working out of the hotel, just a precaution because it's a muslim holiday and the Head of Office here is (rightly, I think, as locals are also keeping this discourse) worried that there maybe manifestations and violence. For now, Islamabad is quiet. I am not taking any risks, but I doubt anything will happen. Anyway, this allows me to work at my rythm, I am not complaining...

J'ai recu un courriel me contant qu'hier matin, aux informations de Radio Canada, le reporter canadien de R.C Akli Ait Abdallah, a fait un bref reportage sur le Cachemire pakistanais, et notamment la ville Muzaffarabad (MUZ pour les intimes)... C'est la que j'ai passe 2 jours la semaine derniere . Mon collegue et moi avons visite la ville. Il a pris beaucoup de photos de la destruction... et les a partagees avec moi.


I received an email telling me that yesterday morning, on CBC, the Canadian journalist Akli Ait Abdallah was commenting on Pakistani Kashmir, and particularly Muzaffarabad (MUZ). It's there that I spent 2 days last week. My colleague and I visited the city. He took lots of pictures of the destruction... and shared them with me.


MUZ-Earthquake-4Feb06, taken by JASON, originally uploaded by The Travelling Beaver.

Mis a nu.... Exposed....


MUZ-Earthquake-4Feb06, taken by JASON, originally uploaded by The Travelling Beaver.

Who is he? Is the owner of this icon still alive? Somehow, the picture is still intact...

Qui-est-ce? Son proprietaire est-il toujours vivant? Etonnant que cette photo soit toujours intacte...

MUZ-Earthquake-4Feb06, taken by JASON, originally uploaded by The Travelling Beaver.
Les habitants de cette maison l'ont abandonnee... ils ont peur qu'elle leur tombe dessus...
The owners of this house abandonned it... they were afraid it would fall on them...


MUZ-Earthquake-4Feb06, taken by JASON, originally uploaded by The Travelling Beaver.

Incroyable que cet oranger soit reste intact et ai produit des fruits malgre la destruction...

Amazing that this tree remained intact and produced fruit despite all the destruction.

Akli Ait Abdallah se rappelait que les "humanitaires "ne pouvaient s'y rendre que par les moyens héliportés de l'armée pakistanaise, que dans cette zone, il y a eu 70 000 morts et plusieurs milliers de personnes sont encore sous les abris de fortune.......Que les interventions étaient maintenues sur le mode Urgence( abris, nourriture et soins), un an après le tremblement de terre.

Akli Ait Abdallah remembered that the "humanitarians" could not go to MUZ by other means then with the pakistani army's helicopters, that in this area, there 70 000 deaths and that several thousands of people are still living in makeshift shelters... That the interventions are still in emergency mode (shelters, food and healthcare) one year after the Earthquake.

J'ai constate tout cela. Mais les helicopteres sont pilotes par des Russes, et font partie de UNHAS (United Nations Humanitarian Air Service). J'ai pris cet helico pour aller a Mansehra et pour rentrer de Muzaffarabad.

I noticed all of that. But the choppers were piloted by Russians, et are part of UNHAS (United Nations Humanitarian Air Service). I took this chopper to go to Mansehra and to go back from Muzaffarabad.




UN Chopper, taken by JASON, originally uploaded by The Travelling Beaver.

Sur la route de retour, on a pu constater la destruction totale du village de Palakot... J'ai reussi a capturer cette vue:

On the way back, we were able to notice the totale destruction of the village of Palakot... I managed to catch this on film:


DSCN02222006-02-04_03-48-36, originally uploaded by The Travelling Beaver.

L'ONG pour laquelle je travaille distribue des abris au Kashmir et dans le Nord du Pakistan. On determine qu'un abri peut etre habite par une famille de 10 personnes. Les gens ne mentiraient normalement pas a propos de leur famille. De toutes facons, nous avons des employes locaux qui font des verifications pour s'assurer que l'information obtenue est logique.

The NGO I work with is a major shelter supplier in AJK and NWFP (sorry, no name - gotta keep my head safe!) The way we operate is that we actually determine that a shelter can do for a family of 10. People usually would not lie about their family members. We have local staff checking the background info as well to make sure it makes sense.

Il y a encore plusieurs milliers de personnes sans abris. L'organisation pour laquelle je travaille a pour objectif de distribuer 10 000 kits de construction d'"abris". Un abri peut tenir jusqu'a 10 personnes. Nous distribuons tous les jours sur 3 sites, a + ou - 200 familles par jour. Les distributions vont encore durer 2 semaines. Donc si mon estimation est correcte, a peu pres 42 000 persones (je calcule 5 personnes par abri car il y a des plus petites familles) sont encore sans abri en ce moment.

There are still several thousands of people without shelter. The organization I work for is striving to distribution 10 000 shelter. A shelter can house up to 10 people. We are distributing every day on 3 sites, to more or less 200 families a day. So if my estimate is correct, about 42 000 people (calculation 5 people by shelter, since there also are smaller families) are still without shelter at the moment.


Parce qu'au coeur de l'urgence, les villages eloignes etaient les plus a risque (essentiellement parce que eloigne = haute altitude = froid = danger de mort), nous travaillons du haut vers le bas de la montagne dans nos zones de service.

Because in the midst of the emergency the mose remote villages were also the most at risk (mostly because remote = high altitude = cold = death) we've been working from the top down in the area which we serve.

Il y a bien sur des tables de concertation dans la zone AJK avec tous les acteurs concernes, et des rencontres hebdomadaires pour s'assurer qu'il n'y a pas de double travail dans les zones affectes.

I also know that there is major concertation efforts in the AJK area by all concerned actors and weekly meetings take place to ensure that no double-servicing happens.

Dans tout ca, les grands oublies sont les sans-abris de la ville (MUZ) qui sont completement ignores par les humanitaires au profit des villages recules, plus menaces par le froid que les citadins. A MUZ, les victimes du tremblement de terre sont encore dans des tentes ou des abris de fortune. Jusqu'a la semaine derniere, c'etait plutot froid la nuit a MUZ.

In fact, the saddest thing (as I see it) is that Muzaffarabad has had barely any assistance based on the above mentionned system. So people are still in tents in the urban area. Until last week, it was still pretty cold at night.



Earthquake victims in MUZ, taken by JASON, originally uploaded by The Travelling Beaver.

Toute cela est bien sur desolant.... All this is desolating.

Il y a beaucoup de defis dans le travail d'urgence au AJK. On ne devrait jamais oublier que gens qui sont sur le terrain travaillent des heures infernales et campent au bureau, loin de leurs familles, pour aider les victimes. (En tout cas, c'est ce que font nos gens.)

There are a lot of challenges in servicing the Earthquake relief. We should never forget that the people on the field are actually working around the clock and camping out in the office, away from their homes, to help others. (Anyway, that is what our field people do.)

If you have any curiosity about the Earthquake, check out Kathryn's post, the discussion there is quite interesting.

Azad Jammu Kashmir (AJK) est un pays de reve. Des montagnes a perte de vu et des paysages envoutants... comme celui-ci par exemple:

Azad Jammu Kashmir (AJK) is a dream place. Mountains up to the horizon and magical landscapes... like this one for example:


Kashmir at its best, taken by JASON, originally uploaded by The Travelling Beaver.



Bien sur, en bout de ligne, on a aussi eu le plaisir de voir Islamabad vue du ciel... C'est toujours impressionnant, une ville nichee au creux de montagnes...
On the way back, we also got to see Islamabad from the sky... It's always impressive, a city nestled between mountains...

The Beaver

My guest map is wonderful ! And you'd all be wonderful to post, all of you lurk mode readers!Thanks and may the winds of Fate blow your way !

Did you like these pictures? I put up over 150 pictures here. Vous aimez mes photos? J'en a plus de 150! Visionnez-les ici.

Enjoy - let me know what you like!

February 05, 2006

Earthquake bound / Stupeur et tremblement... de terre...

Hey guys... I know I owe you some posts.... I am extremely tired, so I'm going the lazy way and giving y'all plenty of pics to look at! Below all these pictures, there is a link... to more pictures....
Salut tout le monde... Je sais que je vous dois pas mal d'histoires... mais je suis fatiguee, alors je prends l'adage au pied de la lettre: une image vaut 1000 mots, non? Sous chaque photo, il y a un lien... vers plus de photos....

1Chopper ride ISD MAN, originally uploaded by The Travelling Beaver.

We took the helicopter twice to go to the field and back. This is just an example of the amazing views we had from above.

Nous avons pris l'helicoptere pour aller sur le terrain... et revenir... ceci est just un exemple des vues extraordinaires que nous avons eu en helicoptere....


Kashmiri children in Muzaffarabad, originally uploaded by The Travelling Beaver.

I stole this picture from my colleague (I am very scrupulous about taking pictures of people) - apparently, this kids instisted on having their picture taken. They are probably the hope of Kashmir - I wonder what their living conditions are now though...

J'ai pique cette photo a un collegue (j'ai toujours des scrupules quand vient le temps de photographier des gens....) - mais apparemment, ces enfants voulaient etre pris en photo. Ils sont probablement l'espoir du Kashmir - je me demande quelles sont leurs conditions de vie par contre...


Standing on the 1st floor of a house.... in downtown Muzaffarabad, we were told the pungy smell was that of rotten bodies that remain unfound to this day.

Debout sur ce qui devrait etre le 1er etage d'une maison... au centre ville de Muzaffarabad, on nous explique que l'odeur acre que nous sentons est celles des corps qui sont, a ce jour, toujours sous les decombres.

See the white mesh on the mountains? These are landslides. There used to be villages there, which have all been wiped out.

Vous voyez les etendues blanchatres sur la montagne? Ce sont les glissements de terrain. Il y avait des villages ici, avant, mais ils ont ete completement decimes.

The Beaver
My guest map is wonderful ! And you'd all be wonderful to post, all of you lurk mode readers!Thanks and may the winds of Fate blow your way !