Some quick news rapids, I am well and safe.

So 2 trips to Herat are planned:

- a 24 hours stay for the entrance meeting on June 6,
- Departure of the team for Herat planned the week of June 17 for two weeks.

The first stint allowed me to ascert a few things:
1) Herat airport is a catastrophe ;
2) UN flights do get cancelled or delayed ;
3) Peshawar is a depressing place (at least, the airport) ;
4) Herat is pretty ;
5) I will be staying in a 5 star hotel

Afghanis for the moment seem to be very nice people. There are in Kabul the pleasant places to take a meal - on the exterior it looks like nothing, but the garden, once one enters, is very pleasant. It is if the restaurants were to wear the burka.

Myself, I wear the Kameez (long Pakistani tunic) and a scarf on my head and shoulders, or a abayah (a long monk like dress) with a scarf to be in agreement with the local culture. But as soon as I am at the hotel, the office or in an expat restaurant, buh bye decorum.ABAYAH

KAMEEZ

Yes, the cover, it is exhausting, and somewhat unpleasant. My colleague, a girl who usually adapts well, seems to have trouble this time. It is says much. I acknowledge that the abayah is a little much, but when I am satisfied with the paki look.

Environment with the team is good, we have a lot of challenges so we really stick together.

I do not smell myself any direct threats, but I acknowledge to have seldom seen as many AK-47. It is a little distressing. This said, as these machine-guns are most of the time destines to my protection, so I try to make abstraction of it. Not always obvious.

I give the context, but I repeat it, I feel safe. NOTHING TO WORRY ABOUT.

The Beaver

My guest map is wonderful ! And you'd all be wonderful to post, all of you lurk mode readers!
Thanks and may the winds of Fate blow your way !

Painting my nails in Kabul

I arrived in Kabul, I'm fine, I am in a comfortable hotel, and will post more tomorrow.

My flight was ok - but I almost missed it. I re-fell asleep after my alarm rang. I slept through the better part of it, but not before I made friend, a Attache working at the French Embassy in Kabul. Knowing people is key in this business.

Kabul is fine but food is terrible. The weather seems to be erratic - freakin' hot by day, freakin' cold at night. The desert thing, if you will. Wearing a burka in broad daylight must be unbearable. The hijab is already a pain, I'll admit.

The picture I am using for the header, I didn't take, but it is true - this is what Kabul looks like from the sky. From the ground there is barely any thing to see - low mud houses, that's pretty much it.

My hotel looks like crap from the outside but is actually pretty nice inside. There is a garden, a gym, and a restaurant. My only qualm is the food. Meat is difficult to avoid. And boiled beef is yucky.

It took a while for Internet to get hooked up, so I had time to give myself a manicure and a pedicure. Strange first activity for Kabul, if you ask me.

Tomorrow, work. I'll know whether or not I go to Herat, and for how long if I do.

The Beaver

My guest map is wonderful ! And you'd all be wonderful to post, all of you lurk mode readers!
Thanks and may the winds of Fate blow your way !

2007 Planning (again... changes - any questions?)

May and June 2007

June - Mid-July 2007

Last 2 weeks of July

August and September 2007

September 2007

October / November 2007

Last week of November-Mid December My Holiday season

The Beaver


My guest map is wonderful ! And you'd all be wonderful to post, all of you lurk mode readers!
Thanks and may the winds of Fate blow your way !

NONE OF THIS IS HAPPENING IN ISLAMABAD

Pakistani forces attack 'terrorist' camp, four dead :MIRANSHAH, Pakistan Army troops launched an operation Tuesday to flush out a "terrorist" training camp in a tribal region bordering Afghanistan, killing three Uzbeks and one tribesman, soldiers stormed the camp at Zakerkhel village in North Waziristan district after militants refused to meet a peace delegation of tribal elders flown in by helicopter and opened fire on security forces, a military statement said. "The security forces returned fire and are in the process of clearing the miscreants' training facility," the statement said. Chief military spokesman Major General Waheed Arshad said at least three militants were killed in the raid and some "terrorist" training materials including explosives had been seized. "We don't know the exact number of people killed. We hope the operation will be over soon then we will get the details," he told a private television channel.

Music shop blown up in Pakistan's Sherpao village PESHAWAR, Suspected militants blew up a music shop in a grenade attack in Sherpao village, 25 kilometres outside Peshawar, late Monday, police said Tuesday.Senior police officer Feroz Shah said two militants on a bicycle lobbed a hand grenade into the shop and fled. A police squad on motorcycles chased and arrested one man, while the other escaped. A dental clinic and a computer shop were also damaged in the blast, he added.

Musharraf, Aziz review law n' order, economy: President General Pervez Musharraf and Prime Minister Shaukat Aziz on Tuesday held discussions here and reviewed the state of economy, law and order, and political environment in the country. Prime Minister Aziz who called on President Musharraf here briefed him about his recently concluded visit abroad and his parlays with world leaders.

Ten oil tankers destroyed in Torkham rocket attack : Ten oil tankers waiting to cross Pak-Afghanistan border to take oil supplies for US-led coalition troops in Afghanistan were burnt in a fire started by two rockets fired at a parkinbg lot near the border town of Torkham. the authorties later found and defused three more rockets from near by mound the rockets were linked to a timer to go off at an appointed time eight persons all afghans were arrested for interrogation. According to one source 22 oil tankers and containers had been destroyed and damaged during the last one and a half month in different parts of NWFP, Talibans were being blamed for these incidents.

Cleric ready to die instead of closing down illegal FM channel: Mingora Swat.Owner of illegal FM channel in Swat and son-in-law of Safi Muhmmad, the chief of defunct Tanzeem Nifaze Shariat Mohammandi (TNSM) Maulana Fazulullah reiterated his commitment to render sacrifice of his life instead of any compromise on the FM channel. Following the possible military operations against the Jamia Hafsa in Islamabad he has invited his followers to register their names for jihad, on which thousands have offered themselves for jihad. Local Administration has started impounding transport in the area so as to block the way for those trying to leave fro jihad. TNSM leader said they would give them a call for jihad when required according to details more than 100 youths from Swat have registered their names for suicide attacks and have disappeared from the area after seeking forgiveness from their relatives or near and dear ones.

Two Killed in Hub blast: BOLUCHISTAN, Quetta. Two people were killed and three injured when a powerful bomb went off in the industrial area of Hub on May 22 night. The bomb was planted at a bus stop close to a bridge on the RCD highway in the industrial town which went off at 1100 PM.One of the injured is in critcal condition, no one has claimed responsibility.

The Beaver

My guest map is wonderful ! And you'd all be wonderful to post, all of you lurk mode readers!
Thanks and may the winds of Fate blow your way !

In Mourning

Some of you know this already, but I've been dealing for months now with a cancer-stricken extended family member. CQFD's father was diagnosed with lung cancer back in january, and he passed away today.

Seeing as I'm in Pakistan and they're in Canada, and I'm not going to make it home on time for the funeral, I'm bummed, to put it lightly.

I’ve known the man for over a decade now. He was a good man, he opened his door to all his kid's friends. He was warm, and funny, and smart. He lent us a willing ear when we were rowdy or sad. He gave me a father figure to look up to after my own dad passed away some years ago. He taught me about a lot of good things about respectability, courage, friendship, loyalty, and family.

I'm really sad for CQFD too, because we are still very, very close, and there is a lot of affection between us. And since I'm alone in Pak to deal with this, well... I'm venting here.

I don't think this will affect my posting - simply because it's a good distraction from the rest of the crap I have to deal with. I just needed a place to express it.

Thanks all,

The Beaver

My guest map is wonderful ! And you'd all be wonderful to post, all of you lurk mode readers!
Thanks and may the winds of Fate blow your way !

How an SMS maybe saved my life

I was hanging out, taking a shower, when I heard my phone ring its familiar Drrrrrring, indicating a new SMS.

Nonchalantly, I walked to my phone, my body fresh and clean from the hot shower. Was it news from home? An invitation to dinner?

No.

Instead, it was this :

"All please avoid serena/nirvana/abpara area this evening. Rangers have taken position to attack lal masjid. Situation is very tense. Pls avoid to go to abpara and G6/2 area."

Gee wiz. I wonder how Afghanistan will be.

The Beaver

My guest map is wonderful ! And you'd all be wonderful to post, all of you lurk mode readers!
Thanks and may the winds of Fate blow your way !

P.S. On a lighter note, it says a lot about the efficiency of our security monitors. Please do not worry, friends and family.

Thoughts about being me in Pakistan

I noticed recently that when I walk on the street, I get a lot of attention. This happens, whether I am dressed in western clothes or not. It happens, day or night.

Some may say it has to do with my size, my skin, my hair color. Granted, I stand out. The 2 people I travel with blend in better, one being asian, the other, a true-blue American of German/Slavic descent with dark hair, who has been asked recently if he was Afghani.

I think, though, that it’s not only my looks. In Islamabad, foreigners crawl out of the walls. They are used to us. No, I think I am beautiful in the eyes of these men, or minimally that I am somewhat attractive. I like that thought. The amount of male attention I get with westerners is very limited. It’s heartening.

The other thing about being in Pak is the shopping craze. The house I live in is front of Jinnah Market, and so I have been having a hard time resisting the appeal of souvenir, clothiers and accessory shops. It looks like everything in Pakistan is of a lovely craft, clothes are exotic and luxurious.

Thankfully, the knowledge that UNHAS, (the United Nations Humanitarian Air Service) will only allow me 30 kilos to fly into Kabul, and that I already have 29.99 Kilos of luggage, protects me from complete bankruptcy.

To compensate, I focus on small and light items, mostly toe-rings and ankle bracelets. (Would I be developing a foot fetish?)

I also now have 3 new scarves, 2 new Kameez (the Pakistani long top) from FNKASIA, the hottest local designer, and countless hair accessories.

I am turning into a girl, somebody stop me!

The Beaver

My guest map is wonderful ! And you'd all be wonderful to post, all of you lurk mode readers!
Thanks and may the winds of Fate blow your way !

More advisories... the net tightens

Country Risk Rating High

Advisory I- Supreme Court Official Killed in Islamabad; Nationwide Strike Commences

A senior Supreme Court official was killed by gunmen early on 14 May at his residence in Islamabad.

According to the official's wife, two or three gunmen shot him and immediately fled the scene in what appears to have been a targeted killing.

Meanwhile, shops across the country closed in response to a strike called by opposition parties Alliance for Restoration of Democracy (ARD), Muttahida Majlis-e-Amal (MMA), Pakistan Tehrik-e-Insaaf (PTI) and Awami National Party (ANP).

Troops in Karachi were allegedly given orders to shoot protesters in response to a break down in law and order in the city over the weekend which killed at least 42 people and injured approximately 140. The Sindh provincial government has imposed Section 144 of the Pakistani Constitution in Karachi for a period of 30 days, banning the carrying of weapons, processions, public rallies and public meetings.

Roads leading to North Nizamabad, North Karachi, Site and Orangi town in Karachi have been sealed by authorities, while traffic on the National Highway and railways has been suspended. Approximately 15,000 police and paramilitary troops have been deployed in the city.

The Marriot, Avari and Sheraton hotels in Karachi, Serena and Marriot hotels in Islamabad, Avari hotel in Lahore and Pearl hotel in Peshawar are providing escort services to and from the airport for their customers.

Pakistan International Airways (PIA) has advised passengers to check with the airline for any changes in schedule for domestic and international flights out of Karachi.

Violence erupted in Karachi on 12 May, as rallies organized by opposition parties MMA, ANP and Pakistani People's Party (PPP), along with several lawyers, in support of suspended Chief Justice Iftikhar Muhammad Chaudhry, clashed with a competing rally by the Muttahida Qaumi Movement (MQM), the ruling party in the Sindh province and a member of the national coalition government.

The killing of a Supreme Court official comes in the wake of Chief Justice Chaudhry's petition hearing in the Supreme Court, which was scheduled for 14 May but was subsequently halted. Chief Justice Chaudhry's lawyers announced that they planned to protest in Islamabad on 14 May.

With the involvement of coalition member MQM in the violence, there are speculations that President Pervez Musharraf's government has been weakened and there may be early elections. President Musharraf, however, has declared that both presidential and general elections will take place as scheduled.

There has been some visible downgrading of physical security measures in Islamabad and Lahore on 14 May, however Karachi remains in a virtual lockdown. Further protest and violence remains likely.

SBI P advises its staff members to defer non-essential travel to Pakistan until the situation subsides. Those staff in Karachi are advised to limit movement in the city. In particular, Qasba Aligarh, Banaras, Patel Para, Sohrab Goth, Qaidabad, Dawood Chowrangi Landhi, Shahra-e-Faisal, Gulistan-e-Jauhar, Nomish Chowangi, Water Pump area, Ibne-e-Sina road, Metro Cinema, Lyari, Kala Board, Malir, PIA Colony, SITE area, Baloch Colony, Guru Mandir, Model Colony, Korangi, Qasba Colony, Jamshed Quarters and Lasbela should be avoided. In addition, Members in Islamabad are advised to avoid the vicinity of the Supreme Court.

Staff members travelling to and from the country should check with their respective airlines about internal security mechanisms and changes in flight schedules.

Country Risk Rating High
Advisory II-Pakistani and Afghan Forces Clash

Pakistan's Frontier Corps clashed with Afghan soldiers at Jajai in the tribal Kurram Agency near Afghanistan's Paktia province on 13 May.

Pakistani authorities claim that six Afghan soldiers were killed while Afghan officials said that two Afghan civilians were killed in the fighting.

Both sides traded accusations of unprovoked firing which led to a two-hour battle. According to reports, the fighting affected Kubki village and several persons were injured in Gul Ghundi.

The latest incident will further impact on the troubled relationship between the two countries.

Afghanistan accuses Pakistan of providing assistance to the Taliban and al-Qaeda militants that stage regular attacks on Afghan and coalition forces inside Afghanistan. Pakistan denies these charges and claims that it is doing all it can to fight terrorism in the region.

The 1510 mi (2430 km) border shared by the two countries is a contentious issue. Pakistan's recent move to fence parts of the border in an attempt to control the movement of militants has angered Kabul which does not recognize it as an international boundary. The frontier region is inhabited on both sides by Pashtun tribes with strong family and clan ties who travel freely across the border.

Taliban offensives in Afghanistan generally increase during the summer with the opening of the mountain passes. Despite claims to the contrary, Pakistan continues to support its proxies in Afghanistan, including members of the Taliban. The US is also losing patience with Pakistan's less than constructive role in Afghanistan and in pursuing regional extremists. The US support of both countries is the major factor preventing a further deterioration of relations between the two countries. This is an artificial situation that will not last.

Increased clashes on the Pakistan-Afghan border are likely.

The Beaver

My guest map is wonderful ! And you'd all be wonderful to post, all of you lurk mode readers!
Thanks and may the winds of Fate blow your way !

Considerations and confidence

Suicide bombing alerts in Islamabad have been heightened. We are tightening up our security protocols. I now have to tell my TL where I am at all times, rotate my hang outs, avoid getting out of a taxi in front of the house, and keep a phone on me at all times. Paranoia is coming at us in style.

There is still something positive. My friend found the guide to Islamabad's restaurants. It's heartening.

Our entry into Afghanistan for the whole 6 weeks was approved this morning. I am still waiting to see what is going to happen with the rest - whether my transfer to the Middle East is happening or not. (More to come about that soon.)

I guess it will be nothing compared to Kabul - it looks like Kabul will be the highest risk zone I'll ever go in of all my life. I'm not afraid, though. Something in me tells me it is my duty to go, and all will be fine. I am confident of it.

The Beaver

My guest map is wonderful ! And you'd all be wonderful to post, all of you lurk mode readers!
Thanks and may the winds of Fate blow your way !

Warning Issued for Possible Suicide Attacks

The US Embassy in Pakistan issued a warden message on 8 May to warn its citizens of the increased threat of possible suicide attacks on Westerners in the country.

According to the statement, the US Mission has received non-specific information regarding terrorist attacks, possibly suicide attacks, against US persons and interests, as well as places frequented by Westerners. The major cities including Islamabad , Karachi , Lahore and Peshawar were listed as possible targets for such attacks.

Media reports on 8 May also indicate that Pakistani intelligence agencies have warned the government of possible suicide attacks by jihadi groups based in Waziristan against police and security officials across the country.

Local media sources have also indicated that the suspected suicide bombers have already reached the state of Punjab from Waziristan in preparation for attacks. In response, security cordons have been reportedly strengthened around police outposts, the National Police Academy and the Sihala Police Training College in Punjab .

Pakistan has experienced a surge in suicide attacks on civilians in the recent past. At
least 80 people have been killed in such attacks across Pakistan since January. The incidents also included an assassination attempt on the Interior Minister on 28 April in Charsada , North West Frontier Province (NWFP).

Groups with the motive and modus operandi to conduct anti-government suicide attacks include the Taliban and affiliated Pashtun extremists, jihadi groups headed by Lashkar-e-Toiba and Baluchi separatists.

Anti-government attacks have the potential to take a direct anti-foreign and particularly anti-Western turn. In addition to being at incidental risk from sectarian and anti-government violence, foreigners continue to present a softer indirect target for terrorist groups aiming to destabilize President Pervez Musharraf's regime.

Limp Biskit in 50 years

The Beaver

My guest map is wonderful ! And you'd all be wonderful to post, all of you lurk mode readers!
Thanks and may the winds of Fate blow your way !

A weekend yet again spent sleeping

I went to Al-Faisal Mosque in Islamabad. Thank god I did, because otherwise, I spent my weekend sleeping.

The Mosque is an impressive thing. It sits in a nest of hills, which, when you are on the outside terrasse, gives it the most impressive, beautiful sight. The hills are green, and the birds are rather loud. It makes one think a lot about extremism to be in such a peaceful place. I'm glad I went - it confirmed my intuition that God does sit in such places, but that his word (and work) are perverted by humans. A common thing, really, when you think of it.


It was an afternoon full of contrasts, though, to visit the mosque (no pics inside, sorry), and then to have a milkshake with my teammates at the Hot-Spot, an indeed burning place where one can enjoy home-made bagels and Ice-cream, and a "Death by Chocolate pie" which I've yet to try.


I was also lucky to be taken out by co-workers. Sweet people, really. Sometimes, I'm really blessed.

Oh geez, I guess I didn't sleep all weekend after all !

The Beaver

My guest map is wonderful ! And you'd all be wonderful to post, all of you lurk mode readers!
Thanks and may the winds of Fate blow your way !

Who would have thunk?

First week in ISB is over, and I am (at last) rid of my HORRIBLE jetlag.

Work is weird. Looks like we'll be piggybacking on an external team's work, which means possibly A NORMAL AMOUNT OF WORK !!! I'm very excited - and worried. What am I going to do with all this free time ? *gnaw on hand*

Had my first night out yesterday, starting with a manicure and pedicure at what is possibly the VERY BEST spa I ever visited. (Who would have thunk?)

I went to a birthday party, a BBQ actually, where bootleg beer and smuggled wine were galore. It was a great deal of fun (and safe, yes mummy).

Today I'm spending some time on my writing, watching season 6 of Sex & The City (bootleg, of course), hiking in the mountain range, and going to a karaoke party at the Canadian Club tonight.

Pak is cool, and I feel a whole lot better, although I'm still homesick.

--------------------------------------

Ma première semaine a ISB est finie, et je suis débarrassée (enfin) de mon HORRIBLE decallage horaire.

Au travail, c'est biz. Nous completons sur le travail d'une équipe externe, qui signifie probablement une QUANTITÉ NORMALE DE TRAVAIL ! ! ! (*pour une fois*)

Je suis très excitée - et inquiéte. Quel vais-je faire de tout ce temps libre ? * se ronge la main*

A eu ma première nuit dehors hier, commençant par une manucure et un pedicure à ce qui est probablement LE MEILLEUR spa que j'ai jamais visité. (Kilucru ?)

Je suis allé réellement à une fête d'anniversaire, un BBQ, où la bière (illegale) et le vin (passé en douce aux douanes) étaient en abondance. C'était tres sympathique (et securitaire, oui Maman).

Aujourd'hui je passe un petit moment a ecrire, je regarde la saison 6 de Sex & the City (produit vendu illégalement, naturellement), une petite promenade dans les montagnes, et vais à une partie de karaoke au club canadien ce soir.

C'est sympa, le Pakistan, et je me sens mieux, meme si je m'ennuie encore de cheu nous.

The Beaver

My guest map is wonderful ! And you'd all be wonderful to post, all of you lurk mode readers!
Thanks and may the winds of Fate blow your way !

Grumble grumble

For the first time in 3 days, I am in an acceptable state in the morning.

After 4 flights, 3 lay overs and more than 24 hours of travelling, my sleeping practices are completely perturbed. For 3 days, I wake up in the middle of the night, and I am able to sleep again around 6h in the morning.

Consequently, I have been lacking energy to write, so please accept my excuses for a slightly overly long silence.

Spring in Islamabad is very beautiful, the flora is superb and since last year, constructions and installations in the city are remarkable.

Well, that is all for the news. I did not do much since my arrival in ISB....

Pour la premiere fois depuis 3 jours, je suis dans un etat acceptable le matin.

Apres 4 vols, 3 transits et plus de 24 heures de voyage, je me suis trouvee completement perturbee dans mes habitudes de sommeil. Depuis 3 jours, je me reveille en plein milieu de la nuit, et je me sens capable de me rendormir vers 6h du matin.

En consequence, je manque un peu d'energie pour ecrire, donc toutes mes excuses pour un silence un peu long.

Le printemps a Islamabad est tres beau, la flore est superbe et depuis l'an dernier, les constructions et amenagements dans la ville sont remarquables.

Bon, c'est tout pour les nouvelles. Je n'ai pas fait grand chose depuis mon arrivee a ISB....

Je vous embrasse tous avec beaucoup d'affection.

The Beaver

My guest map is wonderful ! And you'd all be wonderful to post, all of you lurk mode readers!
Thanks and may the winds of Fate blow your way !

Safe in sound in Pak

4 flights and 3 layovers later, I'm in Islamabad again, a year and 3 months after my first visit.

Spring in Pakistan is lovely, and the weather is warm. Flowers are blooming, and the locals are still as lovely as they were.

I came into the office and was greeted warmly by the staff.

The hotel is nice.

Why am I still yearning for home?

The Beaver

My guest map is wonderful ! And you'd all be wonderful to post, all of you lurk mode readers!
Thanks and may the winds of Fate blow your way !

On my way to Pak

I'm in JFK airport, about to fly to Pakistan. The last week has been rather hectic with many social encounters.

I leave home frustrated and eager to go back.

*scratches head* Maybe I should make a decision about it?

The Beaver

My guest map is wonderful ! And you'd all be wonderful to post, all of you lurk mode readers!
Thanks and may the winds of Fate blow your way !

On lay-over in Paris

I'm on my way home for a week, and have 5 hours to waste at the airport in Paris. In the process, I am experiencing several frustrations:

1. I feel I did not see enough of Burkina. Considering my past history with the country, it is a very real and profound frustration. Despite the advance notice, I failed in seeing our family friends. When the plane took off, I cried.

2. I made some friends in Mali and Burkina and I will miss them. For the first time in a while, I felt a strong connection to these places, and my sadness to leave is very complete.

3. I don't have enough time to go into Paris. BUT I AM SO CLOSE !!!

4. I know I will only have only a week home. It's not enough.

5. I'm sleepy *eyes closing* but I can't lie down.

6. I'm bored (by my own blogging) and there is no-one on MSN !!!

7. I'm lonely.

These frustrations are alleviated by the knowledge that I will soon be enjoying Mum's cooking, my friends' goofy jokes and Montreal's characteristic weather.

Having Internet helps too. I am addicted.

The Beaver

My guest map is wonderful ! And you'd all be wonderful to post, all of you lurk mode readers!
Thanks and may the winds of Fate blow your way !

I had never thought a phone could be THAT useful

The Beaver

My guest map is wonderful ! And you'd all be wonderful to post, all of you lurk mode readers!
Thanks and may the winds of Fate blow your way !

A day off for the busy Beaver

Yesterday was a long day. I took the day off and went with my Peace Corps friends to visit Djenne, where one can see a traditional mosque, which is both a part of the world’s historical heritage and the world’s largest mud structure (see the above header?).

We sat under a straw hut and had drinks with other Peace Corps girls, talked about Mali, and the world, and relationships. It was a good day, but I am exhausted.

I have been procrastinating for the last 2 days my work on the Mali report. This is my chance to shine, and I am about to blow it if I don’t do something soon. I guess I was a bit over ambitious – I also think the stifling heat and my overall fatigue are getting in the way. Hopefully, my boss’ arrival this evening will put a bit of pressure on and I will be ready to give him stuff by working overnight and stuff.

I’ve taken here the habit of wearing my hair up in a loose turban. It has several advantages: it hides my hair (which is somewhat gross at the moment since I ran out of shampoo), shields it from the dust and protects my head from the sun. It also makes me look like a hippy, not a negligible asset if you ask me.

This stay in Mali has many of the qualities of my Senegal experience (the hippy friends, the friendly locals, the scant accommodations) but none of its bad sides (I have money, a nice landlord and no boss.) The difficulties in managing communications are the main problem for me. If I had reasonable internet access and if phones worked, this could be heaven for me. Oh yeah – if I wasn’t procrastinating, also.

The Beaver

My guest map is wonderful ! And you'd all be wonderful to post, all of you lurk mode readers!
Thanks and may the winds of Fate blow your way

The big 3-0

Mon anni s'est bien passe. J'ai passe la journee en brousse et j'ai fete le soir en mangeant une brochette au Bar Bozo sur le bord de la Riviere Bani a Mopti en compagnie de 2 volontaires Peace Corps.

J'ai souffle une seule chandelle (une grosse chandelle de cire pour les pannes d'electricite) protegee de l'Harmattan par la nappe.

C'est pas typique mais le coeur y etait.

==============================

I don’t think I am afraid to die. Maybe I a little bit afraid of the pain. For sure, I don’t want the people who have done me the privilege of caring for me to suffer. Their pain scares me probably more then my own. Death itself, however, does not scare me. Once it will have happened, I will cease to exist, or go where ever it is dead people go. I might see again my father, my grandparents, my uncles, and old friends who already passed on. Or I might see no one at all because there is no after life. One way or the other, I will not suffer. I don’t believe in Hell. More importantly, should it exist, I don’t believe there will be a spot for me there. I may be inconstant in my faith, but I am not Evil. So I am not afraid to die.

I am, however, very unready to die. I am hungry. Hungry for life, for love. Hungry for pleasure, experiences, knowledge, exploration. I wish I could live forever. If there was no end to my existence, I would probably become an incredibly knowledgeable being. I would read all there is to read. I would travel the world, as I really wish I could. Take time to stay places and become one with the foreign lands. I feel the world is a wondrous place.

After 18 months of roaming the Earth, having gone around the globe, been to four continents, 18 countries, met and adapted to many cultures, people, foods, landscapes, I feel unsated. If anything, my hunger is stronger then it was in September 2004 when I left for Senegal. When I think of all the countries, the cultures, the landscapes that are still up for discovery, I feel a vertigo of curiosity and eagerness. I have seen nothing. The world is so large, there is so much to do and to see. I feel that I am still ignorant and that there is still so much for me to experience.

I don’t want to die. I just turned 30, and it feels like a death sentence. I wish I didn’t have to deal with the inevitable questions that I have been pressed with for the last few months. What of my destiny? I have been asked to make some decisions. Will I settle down or pursue my military service in the humanitarian industry? Will I trade my chains for other ties?

It is so frustrating to think that alas, I am mortal. That I love life, the Earth and the humans who live and die on it so much the thought if leaving it all one day aches in my chest. My late father used to have a strong appetite for life and when he passed, this appetite passed on to me. He, of all the people I knew, was fully aware that we, mere mortals, are given so little time in this world. As he did, I intend to make the most of what I’ve been given, though for now, I do not know how.

The Beaver

My guest map is wonderful ! And you'd all be wonderful to post, all of you lurk mode readers!
Thanks and may the winds of Fate blow your way !

Urrrrgh !

The connection keeps on dying and the blogger interface is in Italian.

No capici !!! Dang it !!!

I miss my good connection. *sigh*

Better and longer posts soon to come.

The Beaver

My guest map is wonderful ! And you'd all be wonderful to post, all of you lurk mode readers!
Thanks and may the winds of Fate blow your way !

Life in the boonies

Life in the boonies is doing me good, actually. There is no internet in the office and at the hotel. Forces me to do everything in a few hours. Not a bad thing : I both work more and sleep more.

So here is the deal : I wake up at 7 am, take a hot shower (ultimate luxury here in the boonies), have breakfast (nescafe and french bread, and some mango or papaya).

At 8AM the driver picks me up in the white 4x4 5 (like in the movies) and drives me to the office where I spend the next 9 hours interviewing staff, preparing system analyses and preparing my report.

At 5PM I get kicked out of the room they assigned me because a Peace Corps volunteer uses it to teach the staff english (Mali is french speaking) and I go back to the hotel.

I hang out with the locals at the hotel for a bit, work on my laptop on the terrasse, and around 7 I walk over the cyber cafe to pîck up my email and sate my addiction a little.

Then I go back home to the hotel, order a salad, and go to bed with a book (I'm current re-reading Anne Rice's Mummy).

Then it starts all over again.

I'll be going to villages and distribution sites next week so there will be more to tell soon....

The Beaver

My guest map is wonderful ! And you'd all be wonderful to post, all of you lurk mode readers!
Thanks and may the winds of Fate blow your way !

Mopti !

Made it safe and sound in Mopti, many beautiful sceneries on the way and the Malians, like their neighbours in Burkina, are lovely people.

More to come soon.

The Beaver

My guest map is wonderful ! And you'd all be wonderful to post, all of you lurk mode readers!
Thanks and may the winds of Fate blow your way !

Gone to the boonies

Hey y'all - I'll be in the boonies for the next 3 weeks and probably won't have much internet access, so my posting will be erratic. I'll try and stop by every few days to check in on my PMs and on the blog.

Cheers,

The Beaver

My guest map is wonderful ! And you'd all be wonderful to post, all of you lurk mode readers!
Thanks and may the winds of Fate blow your way !

Bowling in Burkina

Some people go bowling for Columbine. I go bowling in Burkina.

I’m joking about it, but there is a bowling alley right across from my hotel. That’s something new. For that matter, the whole street is new. So is the hotel. But somehow, the fact that there is now BOWLING available in Burkina is a schock to me. I have made to myself the solemn promise to go to the bowling alley and check that all bowling pins are there, and that they do indeed rent the shoes, as soon as I get back from Mopti, in Mali, somewhere 3 weeks from now. Curiosity killed the cat, but I have 9 lives.

Il y a ceux qui regardent Bowling for Columbine. Moi, je préfère le bowling au Burkina.

J’en ris, mais il y a une allée de bowling juste en face de mon hôtel. C’est nouveau ca. D’ailleurs, toute la rue est nouvelle. Ca inclut l’hôtel. Mais en quelque part, le fait qu’il est maintenant possible de faire du bowling au Burkina est un choc pour moi. A mon retour de Mopti, au Mali, dans 3 semaines, je me suis promis d’aller y faire un tour et de voir si toutes les quilles y sont, et s’ils font de la location de souliers. La curiosité est un vilain défaut. J’aime mes défauts.

The Beaver

My guest map is wonderful ! And you'd all be wonderful to post, all of you lurk mode readers!
Thanks and may the winds of Fate blow your way !

Time traveling in Ouaga

Anyway, not that all my life is about food, but it seems that it was because of lot of my memories are linked to restaurants. So I had dinner at l’Eau Vive (Running Water, in French.)

L’Eau Vive is an icon in my child memories. When I was very little in the early 80’s, my parents would take me there, and when the time came for me to go to the loo, I would lift up my skirts, pull down my panties, and thread through the whole restaurant butt-naked. Before you make any lewd comments, readers, keep in mind Baby Beaver was only 2 years old.

When we went back in 1987, we went again, and nothing had changed. One of the key features of the restaurant, aside from the fact that the food is great and the place is conducive to quiet talks and serenity, it that you would get interrupted in the middle of your meal and get invited to join the nun’s community in an Ave Maria.

Because it’s a bit naïve, it’s funny, and touching, and heart-warming. And even more so for me, because 16 years later, the hymns are the same. And so is the place. And so is the menu. Going there is a trip back in time, and I am loving every moment of it.

Enfin, ce n’est pas que tout ma vie tourne autour de la nourriture, mais on dirait que c’est le cas parce que beaucoup de mes souvenirs sont lie a des restaurants. J’ai donc soupe a l’Eau Vive.

L’Eau Vive est un icône de mes souvenirs d’enfances. Quand j’étais toute petite au début des années 80, mes parents m’y amenaient et quand il était temps pour moi d’aller au petit coin, je soulevais ma robe, baissait ma culotte et traversait le restaurant les fesses a l’air. (Avant de faire le malin, rappelez-vous que j’avais 2 ans!)

Quand on est retourne au Burkina en 1987, on est revenu a l’Eau Vive, et rien n’avait change. Une des caractéristiques du restaurant, en dehors du fait que la bouffe est excellente et que le cadre est agréable et relaxant, est que votre repas est immanquablement interrompu par une invitation à se joindre aux sœurs dans un Ave Maria.

Moi je trouve ca marrant parce que c’est un peu naïf, mais c’est aussi touchant pour la même raison. Et encore plus touchant pour moi parce que 16 ans plus tard, les chansons sont les mêmes. L’endroit aussi. Le menu aussi. Aller a l’Eau Vive, pour moi, c’est un voyage dans le temps. Et j’en adore chaque instant.

The Beaver

My guest map is wonderful ! And you'd all be wonderful to post, all of you lurk mode readers!
Thanks and may the winds of Fate blow your way !

SM Syndrome

I had lunch over at my friend C’s mum’s house. I realize that I keep on referring to this lovely lady as “C’s Mum” in my head, just like when we used to go to our friend’s house in the teen-age years. I think I am going to call it “Stifler’s mum” syndrome, where one is referred to solely in their capacity as a parent. To cure myself of this SMS, I am going to refer immediately to her as Mrs. O.

Lunch over at Mrs. O’s was wonderful. She is a funny, warm, maternal lady, and her smile reminds me of C’s smile. We had food, wonderful food, more and more until we begged for mercy. It was great !!! We had attieke (cassava couscous) and Alhoko (fried bananas) and fish, and chicken, and beaufitul strawberries. One of the things that makes me laugh is that Beck’s always tells the story of how she hates cooked bananas and how it was a running gag with her siblings on Sunday mornings. Now everytime she sees Alhoko she thinks of it and still won’t eat any. It’s hilarious and it’s great: more for me!!!

J’ai été invitée a manger le repas du midi chez la maman de mon ami C. Je réalise que je ne cesse de penser a elle en tant que « la maman de C », tout comme quand on allait chez nos petits amis après l’école. J’appelle ca le syndrome de « la maman de ». Pour m’en guérir, a compter de maintenant, je l’appellerai Madame O.

Le repas chez Madame O a été merveilleux. Elle drôle, chaleureuse, maternelle, et son sourire me rappelle celui de son fils, une personne que j’aime beaucoup. On a mange, merveilleusement mange, encore et encore jusqu'à demander pitié. C’était formidable!!! Au menu, l’attieke (semoule de manioc), alhoko (plantain frit), poisson et poulet, et des merveilleuses fraises. Une des choses qui me fait rire, c’est ma collègue Beck qui raconte comment dans sa famille les bananes cuites sont impopulaires, que c’est une vieille blague avec ses frères et sœurs. Maintenant, chaque fois qu’elle voit de l’alhoko elle y pense et est incapable d’en manger. C’est mourant et surtout c’est génial pour moi : ca m’en fait plus !!!

The Beaver

My guest map is wonderful ! And you'd all be wonderful to post, all of you lurk mode readers!
Thanks and may the winds of Fate blow your way !

Back on JFK Street

I’ve been trying to revisit the places I loved. I located on Saturday the American Rec Center where I used to finish last in the swimming competition in P.E. The only major difference is that they now have a gym, with no air conditioned in it. The other change is that now you have to go through a US security gate to access it, since it’s on the street across from the Embassy and the whole street is closed to circulation. Probably a post 9/11 thing. They had the same set up in Dakar, as I recall.

J’essaye de revoir les lieux que j’aimais. J’ai localise le centre récréatif américain, celui ou je finissais toujours dernière en compétition de natation de mon cours d’éducation physique. La principale différence que j’ai observe est qu’ils ont maintenant installe un gym, sans air climatise. L’autre changement, c’est que maintenant pour aller au centre, il faut passer par une barrière de sécurité, puisque le centre est en face de l’ambassade et que la rue entière est fermée a la circulation. C’est probablement un truc datant d’après le 11 septembre – c’était le même système au Sénégal, si je me souviens bien.

The Beaver

My guest map is wonderful ! And you'd all be wonderful to post, all of you lurk mode readers!
Thanks and may the winds of Fate blow your way !

A heart-felt apology...

2...to all the readers who are awaiting anxiously my feedback about Burkina, and the changes I find as I rediscover Ouagadougou, 16 years later.

I am swamped in work, so it will have to wait for details... but here goes....

My stay here in Ouaga is shortened because I have to head off to Mali. Juliana, FYI I am going to Mopti and since it's not too far from San - I will come for you ! The team includes 5 people - 2 are still too green to work on their own and I had the Lesotho experience, so our boss asked me to go and work alone in Mali for 3 weeks. I'm sad that I don't get to stay longer, but, heh, the job needs to get done.... I'll be back in Ouaga for the last few weeks, at least. And if I finish Mali early, I can come "home" earlier, so that's additionnal incentive...

Ouaga looks fantastic on the outside. When I arrived I could not beleive what I saw. My first thought was "Ma foi ils ont trop arrose - Ouaga a pousse en mon absence!" - the place did grow in the last 16 years ! My friends had prepared me but it was still a schock...

(click on pic for full set)

On Saturday I rented a taxi and tried to locate the places I used to know. I went to the Centre Culturel Francais where I had played the piano on stage (still occupied by the Fespaco til the next day), had coffee at La Bonbonniere with the Burkinabe Lebanese lady used to teach French at ISO and had me in her class in 8th grade.... I tried to locate the house in Koulouba but of course Koulouba is no more - and I tried to locate the house in Gounghin but ended up driving past Pissy (I swear, I couldn't find the turn!!!) Now that we are going to the office I know where my turn is so I'll have to go back there.

I also went to the Silmande where I used to hang out by the pool - it was also an excuse to drive across town and take stock of the changes. I had some long conversations with the locals, they all tell me the same thing, that the spending is outrageous and it will soon "peter" (explode). The security guard at the Silmande told me that he regularly sees the ministers' sons spend hundreds of thousands in one night on champain that they dont even drink. The use of HIV/AIDS funds for buildings, Ouaga 2000 itself, are outrageous and worrisome. I would not be surprised if something happened soon, although it seems the military have been paid since last fall and keep quiet now.

I had lunch with an old friend from Pakistan yesterday, it was great to see both of him again, particularly since I hadn't seen him in a year. An old friend of our family whom I had refound in Haiti showed up at the hotel last night and we had a drink together (water, as you can imagine, he is ever the simple one) and some long conversations. We reminisced about friends and family a lot. It was nice.

I am feeling very close to my father and mother these days. Many staff at the office are shaking my hand and telling me "you are So&So's daughter, how great it is to meet you." Secretaries remember the blond kid who came to work with her mum. One of the senior managers actually knew my Dad - he used to be with an other NGO before.

Other friends and colleagues of my parents have yet to make contact, so it's only a beginning.

It's a strange feeling, both heartwarming and exhilarating. The new girl said it looks like I have a household name here in Burkina. I'll admit it feels a bit that way, and I am realizing how loved my parents were and what impact they had here. It gives me pride to be their daughter.

The Beaver


Thanks to Ammo in DC, to Garris in Providence and to Baudouine in the UK for posting on my guestmap ! Baudouine, I'm really sorry, that's all that came out from the fashion show.... I was having camera problems that night....

My guest map is wonderful ! And you'd all be wonderful to post, all of you lurk mode readers!
Thanks and may the winds of Fate blow your way !

The tail of the mighty Wabbit

I have plenty to tell about my first day in Burkina... but for now, just a cool li'l movie about the most ferocious rabbit you'll ever see !

The Beaver

My guest map is wonderful ! And you'd all be wonderful to post, all of you lurk mode readers!
Thanks and may the winds of Fate blow your way !

Bye bye India, Hello Burkina Faso !

So I'm getting out of India today, after many adventures and a lot of hard work.

I am now off to Burkina Faso, a tiny country in West Africa, whose capital city is Ouagadougou.

This is very special because I lived there for 8 years, and have not been there since 1991. It will be both a home coming and the end of my memories....

I posted about Burkina Faso a while ago, and you are welcome to check it out HERE.



Until then, Ta-Ta !!!

The Beaver

My guest map is wonderful ! And you'd all be wonderful to post, all of you lurk mode readers!
Thanks and may the winds of Fate blow your way !